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September 3, 2012

La Bodeguita del Medio - Havana, Cuba

La Bodeguita del Medio is a bar/restaurant that claims to be the birthplace of the Mojito.



Needless to say, there was a band playing.


La Bodeguita's real fame comes from one of its famous patrons, Ernest Hemingway, whose framed handwritten note is on display in the bar...


...along with several photos such as this one showing Hemingway shaking Fidel's hand.
 

Now, let's look at the famous drink being mixed at the bar counter:


 And voila:


We went upstairs for a light lunch. The place was full with tourists (not that any Cuban would be able to afford a meal here).


Of course there was another band playing upstairs. Since they all sing the same songs over and over again to tourists, by then, we had heard all their repertoire and listened to "Chan Chan" for the umpteenth time.


Creole fish stew, tostones (fried plantains), Moros y Cristianos (black beans and rice). We also tried a Bucanero Malta.


After this meal, it became clear to me why Cuban cuisine was unknown outside the island: it seems to have limited options, oily & repetitive gravy base and heavy sides.

September 2, 2012

36 hours in Havana - Centro Habana & Vedado

Stills from daily life in Havana:











Entrance to Havana's Chinatown


Malecón


U.S. Interests Section, hidden behind a multitude of flagpoles


Plaza de la Revolución. Che on the facade of the Ministerio del Interior



Memorial a José Marti


Ministerio de comunicaciones


Cementerio de Cristóbal Colón





Viazul bus station (watching "Lista de Espera" is a must before traveling by bus in Cuba)


Restaurante Santo Angel - Havana, Cuba

Restaurante Santo Angel, thanks to its location on Plaza Vieja, offers one of the most atmospheric dining experiences in Old Havana.


We were seated under the covered veranda, with a band playing in a corner and a good view over Plaza Vieja.



We were not very hungry, so ordered 2 mains, a rice side dish and a (frozen) dessert.

Enchilado de camarones (shrimps in chilli gravy)


Guiso de mariscos (seafood stew)


And we shared some Arroz pilaff (Pilaf rice)


Helado a los tres quesos con culi de guayaba (3 cheeses ice cream with guava coulis)


The 2 main dishes were fine although nothing special. Both had the same super oily gravy. Regarding the dessert, the idea of freezing 3 types of cheese was interesting. However, not only did it take 40 minutes to make/freeze, but it was rather disappointing. The "coulis" was in fact a flavored green syrup that didn't taste much of guavas, and there wasn't enough of it to counterbalance the saltiness of the frozen cheeses.

Overall, no culinary highlight here, but this does not really matter while one sits in the shade on the veranda listening to live Cuban music.


Santo Angel Restaurant
Calle Teniente Rey 60 (corner of Calle San Ignacio)
Habana Vieja / Old Havana

36 hours in Havana - Habana Vieja

Some snapshots from our day in Old Havana.

El Capitolo

Parque Central


Paseo del Prado





Hotel Ambos Mundos - Ernest Hemingway's room on the 5th floor


Hotel Ambos Mundos - view from rooftop bar

 

Calle Obispo


State-run peso restaurant, where only moneda nacional is accepted.


Plaza Vieja


Plaza de San Francisco



Plaza de Armas


 
Castillo de la Real Fuerza


Fortaleza de la Cabana


Plaza de la Catedral



Monumento a Maximo Gomez


Castillo del Moro, across the canal de entrada


Malecón

Entrance of La Guarida restaurant, famous thanks to the movie "Fresa y Chocolate", where we had a dinner reservation. Unfortunately, because of some technical problem, they had to close down that evening.